Diamonds are no longer just a girl’s best friend. From signet rings and necklaces to earrings and bracelets, these radiant gems are dazzling everywhere, proving once again that diamonds truly are forever.
Yet, despite being eternally chic and classy, it’s a fact that diamonds aren’t all alike. This is why many people find shopping for the right stone daunting.
The good news? It becomes much easier once you understand the 4Cs — diamond carat, colour, clarity, and cut. These four key factors help explain why some diamonds stand out more than others — and why pieces like the Bernhard H. Mayer® Insignia Heart Pendant or Mira Star Pendant shine with such brilliance.
The 4Cs of Diamonds
Diamond grading has a long history, going back centuries. Since the 1950s, however, brands, diamond professionals and purchasers have been guided by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)’s unique grading system, which evaluates and classifies diamonds based on four things:
Carat
You’ve likely heard the term “carat” before, but you may not have known that this criterion measures a diamond’s weight. For context, one metric carat equals 0.2 grams, i.e., the weight of a paperclip. Thus, a higher diamond carat generally means a heavier stone.
Bear in mind, though, that heavier doesn’t always mean larger or better quality. That’s because the value of a diamond is determined by a combination of other factors, specifically, the other Cs.
As for the best diamond carat weight to get? The simple answer is that certain weights are considered more desirable — e.g., 1.00 carat, 1.50 carats, and 2.00 carats. However, because merchants tend to price diamonds “per carat”, it’s advisable to get a size that falls just below a major weight. This means a 0.98 or 0.99-carat diamond may be priced lower than a 1.00-carat diamond.
Colour
Beyond weight, diamonds come in various hues, from completely colourless to yellow and even brown, and these are graded on a scale from D (completely clear) to Z (light yellow).
Essentially, the more colourless a stone is, the higher its value. So, D, E and F diamonds are the most expensive as they’re the clearest; G, H, I and J stones are not as pricey because they’re slightly tinted, and K through Z gems are the least expensive as they show a lot more colour.
Experts say, however, that G and H category stones offer the best value as they appear colourless to the naked eye but don’t cost nearly as much as true colourless stones.
Incidentally, there are also fancy-coloured diamonds, i.e., diamonds with a colour outside the normal colour range. These stones are graded based on colour intensity, from Faint and Very Light to Fancy Dark and Fancy Deep.
Clarity
Clarity, meanwhile, refers to a diamond’s flaws. Like other gems, internal and external imperfections (called inclusions and blemishes) occur naturally when diamonds are formed, sort of like birthmarks. As a general rule, however, the fewer visible flaws, the more valuable a stone is.
Just like colour, diamond clarity is graded on a scale. This extends from FL and IF (flawless and internally flawless) at the top to I1, I2 and I3 (visibly included) at the bottom. Diamond professionals say, however, that VS1, VS2 and SI1 stones (i.e., stones with very small and small inclusions) typically offer the best value. The reason for this is that the inclusions are very minimal, can’t be seen by the naked eye, and sparkle just as much as flawless gems.
Note, in any case, that clarity can be based on the size, location, visibility and number of the inclusions or blemishes.
Cut
The most essential characteristic of a diamond is its cut. Cut refers to a stone’s shape (e.g., round, princess or heart) and how its angles and facets (i.e., the flat surfaces on a stone), fashioned by expert artisans, reflect light and sparkle. If a diamond is cut too shallow, it can appear dull, too deep, and it absorbs light.
This explains why diamonds are categorised based on five cut grades: Excellent (maximum sparkle), Very Good (above average sparkle), Good (average sparkle), Fair (below average sparkle), and Poor (limited sparkle). It’s always advisable to go for an excellent cut.
Quality and Responsibility
At Bernhard H. Mayer, we believe that quality and responsibility go together. Hence, we select only H-grade coloured stones and SI and VS clarity diamonds for our jewellery collections and strive to ensure that our diamonds meet sustainability standards.
For instance, Bernhard H. Mayer mainly deals with suppliers who are members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), an international not-for-profit standard and certification organisation that ensures all materials are environment-friendly and sourced ethically. This means that whether you purchase a dazzling Solitaire Accent, a chic bolo-style Embracelet, or a pair of stunning Insignia Soul Earrings, you can rest assured that we avoid conflict diamonds, adhere to fair labour practices, and prioritise environmental protection.
A Sparkling Decision
Yes, purchasing diamond jewellery can be a little challenging. However, understanding the 4Cs and knowing how stones are sourced helps ensure that you’re not only choosing something captivating and dazzling but also supporting exquisite craftsmanship and sustainability.
